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In 1761, a writer, describing the purpose de France, says that it doesn't arrive on the style and delicacy of Brussels, its chief defect consisting in the thickness of the cordonnet, which thickens when put into water.

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The Chancellor Herault, who died at the similar period, was equally extravagant in his habits; while the shirts of the combatants in the duel between M. Of these lace-trimmed boots the favourite, Cinq-Mars, left 300 pairs at his demise, 1642. 66), and his rich collerette of Point de Gênes (Fig. The "manchettes à revers" are trimmed in the identical method, and the fashion even extends to the tops of the boots. This is alleged to have belonged to Philip IV. De Crequy and Don Philippe de Savoie are specifically vaunted as "toutes garnies du plus fin et du plus riche level coupé qu'on eust pu trouver dans ce temps là, auquel le level de Gennes et de Flandres n'estoient pas en usage." "At Antwerp, purchased some ruffles of our agreeable landlady, and set out at 2 o'clock for Brussels."—Tour, by G. From his portrait, after Lenain, which hangs within the Gallery of Versailles, we give certainly one of these boots (Fig. The nuns of Odivales were, till the dissolution of the monasteries, famed for his or her lace fabricated of the fibres of the aloe. Above the Austrian eagle and crown is the collar of the Golden Fleece. Children at four years of age are sent to the lace faculty, and are seated at almofadas proportioned to their peak, on which they soon learn to handle the bobbins, generally sixty dozen or more, with great dexterity. "It is inconceivable," says Savary about this time, "to imagine how much Mechlin lace is annually bought by France and Holland, and in England it has always held the highest favour." Make is styled Trolly, with a heavy cordonnet which is identified as gimp or Trolly. The plaits almost invariably consist of four threads. Extensively made in the peninsula of Peniche, north of Lisbon , and employ the whole feminine population. Though now not fabricated within the island, the ladies at Naples still make a coarse lace, which they promote about the streets. Of Florence and its merchandise we all know but little, lawyer turkish citizenship by investment although the Elegy of Agnolo Firenzuola proves that ladies made raised point at an early interval. It shall be seen from these remarks on Spanish lace that we give to Italy the credit of producing the creative and useful level lace, which unexpectedly got here out of Spain after the dissolution of the monasteries." This is an elaborate specimen of Point de Gênes frisé—Italian merletti a piombini. They are, however, continuously out there, sold on the dying of a Cardinal by his heirs, and often repurchased by some newly-elected prelate, every of whom on attaining a high ecclesiastical dignity is compelled to furnish himself with a number of sets. Like other Italian laces, Milanese lace regularly has coats-of-arms or family badges woven in it, such because the Doge's horn, the baldachino , the canine of the Carrara household, and so on, to commemorate a marriage or some other necessary event within the household. And when, in 1767, the Auvergne lace-makers petition for an exemption from the export obligation on their materials, they state as a ground that the obligation prevents them from competing overseas, particularly at Cadiz, with the lace-makers of Piedmont, the Milanais, and Imperial Flanders. The laces of the Vatican and the holy Conclave, mostly presents from crowned heads, are magnificent beyond all description. His expression "scolpì," carved, sculptured in basso rilievo, leaves no doubt upon the matter. Lalande, who writes some years later, adds, the laces formerly have been an object of commerce to the town, now they solely fabricate these of an inferior high quality. A French edict, dated March, 1613, towards superfluity in costume, prohibiting the carrying of gold and silver embroidery, specifically forbids the use of all "passement de Milan, ou façon de Milan" underneath a penalty of one thousand livres.The expression "à point de Milan" happens in the statutes of the passementiers of Paris. This sort of lace was known as Carnival lace when manufactured from Venetian level. So nice was the distress at that time, while the lagoons had been frozen, that the fishermen and their families have been decreased to a state bordering on hunger, and for his or her reduction contributions were made by all classes in Italy, including the Pope and the King. To this application these girls yielded a prepared assent, and at a late interval Queen Margherita graciously consented to become the president of the institution. According to Zedler, an author who wrote about lace in 1742, the worth of Venice point in excessive reduction varied from one to 9 ducats per Italian ell. The present specimen is straightforward in design, but some are very complicated and exquisite. Fifty years later, Evelyn speaks of the veils of glittering taffetas, worn by the Venetian ladies, to the corners of which hold broad but curious tassels of level laces. The laces finest identified in the business world within the earlier intervals had been those of Venice, Milan, and Genoa. The femmes bourgeoises still edge their aprons with level lace, and some of the elder girls wear square linen veils trimmed with coarse lace. Venice was celebrated for her points, while Genoa produced almost completely pillow-lace. The Italians declare the invention of level, or needle-made lace. This charitable movement resulted within the assortment of a fund of money, which sufficed to relieve the quick misery and go away a surplus for the establishment of a neighborhood trade to increase the assets of the Burano population. Lace was made all through Italy principally by the nuns, and expressly for the service of the Church. Modern reproduction at Burano of seventeenth century lace. "Ruffles well wrought and nice falling bands of Italian cut-work."—Fair Maid of the Exchange, 1627. Mesdames les Broderies resign themselves to become "ameublement;" the more devout of the get together to seem as "devants d'autel;" those that really feel too young to surrender the world and its vanities will seek refuge within the masquerade retailers. "One Madame La Boord," says Evelyn, "a French peddling-woman, served Queen Katherine with petticoats, fans, law firm istanbul türkiye and international laces." These hawkers attended the good fairs of Europe, where all purchases were made. We can solely outline it as lace the place the flowers are both joined by "brides," or large coarse stitches, or lace that has no floor in any respect. Milan must, therefore, have made lace extensively to a late interval. "It grazed on my shoulder, takes me away six components of an Italian cut-work band I wore, cost me three kilos in the Exchange however three days before."—Ben Jonson—Every Man Out of His Humour,1599. The trendy Honiton and Maltese are guipures, so is the Venetian level. Again, Sir Robert Bowes, "as soon as ambassador to Scotland," in his stock, 1553, has "One cassock of wrought velvet with p'chment lace of gold." In the record of the Protestant refugees in England, 1563 to 1571, amongst their trades, it is said "some live by making matches of hempe stalks, and parchment lace." Savary says that many of the guipures had been made in the environs of Paris; that formerly, he writes in 1720, great portions were consumed within the kingdom; but because the trend had passed away, they have been principally exported to Spain, Portugal, Germany, and the Spanish Indies, where they were much worn. All lace is terminated by two edges, the pearl, picot, or couronne—a row of little points at equal distances, and the footing or engrêlure—a narrow lace, which serves to maintain the stitches of the bottom firm, and to sew the lace to the garment upon which it's to be worn. Guipure, says Savary, is a kind of lace or passement made from "cartisane" and twisted silk. The flower, or decorative pattern, is either made along with the ground, as in Valenciennes or Mechlin, or individually, after which both labored in or sewn on (appliqué), as in Brussels. In the inventory of Henrietta Maria, dated 1619, seem quite lots of laces, all certified under the name of "passement"; and in that of the Maréchal La Motte, 1627, we discover the time period applied to every description of lace. After disposing of her jewels and objects of value, she concludes by bequeathing "tous mes ouvrages masches et collets aux four Maries, à Jean Stuart, et Marie Sunderland, et toutes les filles";—"masches," with punti a maglia, being among the quite a few phrases applied to this species of work. When the réseau was adorned with a pattern, it was termed lacis, or darned netting, the Italian punto ricamato a maglia quadra, and, combined with point-coupé, was a lot used for bed-furniture. It appears to have been a lot employed for church-work, for the sacred emblems. Lace consists of two components, the bottom and the sample. The term guipure is now so extensively utilized it's tough to give a restrict to its meaning. "Her white breasts shine through the Sidonian fabric, which pressed down with the comb of the Seres, the needle of the Nile workman has separated, and has loosened the warp by stretching out the weft." Queen Mary Stuart, earlier to the birth of James I. The custom of carrying lace from home to deal with nonetheless exists in Belgium, where at Spa and different places, colporteurs, with packs just like those borne by our pedlars, convey round to the visitors laces of great value, which they sell at cheaper rates than those uncovered in the outlets.